Monday, July 27, 2009

Chew or Swallow?

If you ever travel to Ghana, don't leave without sampling some "fufu" and soup while you're here. As demonstrated in the video below, making fufu is a two person job. While one person keeps the rhythm of pounding, the second person skillfully turns and kneads the fufu.

As you pound the plantain and cassava inside the mortar, the starch in them breaks down and you end up with a blob of carbohydrates, which resembles bubblegum in consistency and elasticity. It's served with a super tasty groundnut soup and chicken. But watch out if you ever eat fufu in the presence of Ghanaians: you're not supposed to chew it! If you do, people may get offended, repulsed, or just laugh at you. I chew.

For the record, pounding fufu is incredibly hard regardless of the role you play. The "pounding stick" is heavy as hell, and I don't dare put my fingers anywhere near the fufu when someone is pounding.



Anyways, today we held a technology fair in the Suame Magazine. I was wandering from booth to booth, seeing the innovative ideas our artisans are using, when I came across... an automated fufu pounding machine. WTF?!?



Innovation is good. Technology is good. But in the case of Ghana where the greatest natural resource is human labour, this isn't exactly what the economy is asking for...

Tuesday, July 14, 2009

8 Rules of Management - Africa Edition

When I came in January, I figured I'd be networking a lot as "Business Development Engineer" so I printed off some business cards. In what turned out to be the first of many business card sourcing failures in the last 6 months, they came out pronouncing me as SMIDO's "Business Development Manager" instead of "Engineer". Cool! I'm a manager! A little bit on the side of ego, and a bit on usefulness, the title stuck.



So, after 6 months of managing, what have i learned?

1) Understand local context, systems, and existing relationships

When I first arrived I wanted to use my experience in Canadian industry to accelerate the growth of SMIDO's Engineering Program to success. I quickly realized that almost everything I had learned in school and in industry didn't apply here.

One big thing I believe in is performance-based incentives. I noticed some of the people on my team were passionate, while others sat around not doing anything. When Emma and I made it known that we would reward people for hard work by providing bonuses, the entire workshop lit up in fireworks decrying "We are all the same! We all want to be paid the same!" While people complained in private about those who sat around, the group and community mentality took over in public.

Another idea I tried to promote was sub-contracting work to various people around the Magazine so we could have several highly effective teams working in parallel on different projects while also spreading SMIDO's benefits to more people, rather than the team at our central workshop which was poorly equipped and needed major investment. It turned into a bigger political mess than you can imagine. In the end, there was some practical reason to stick to our central workshop, but it was highly fueled by specific interests that took me several months to realize and come to terms with.

In short, there are so many existing relationships, systems, and political reasons for why things happen that it's nearly impossible for any foreigner to come in and expect to drive change without first living, observing, and interacting with people for months.

2) Systems of accountability are key

Almost all of the people I "manage" are actually executives of SMIDO. As such, while on the surface I was managing, in reality I was their employee. Aside from a week when they ironically all went on strike, the biggest challenge is that there is no system of accountability. No carrot. No stick. No motivation to work hard or comply with rules.

If you can't hire and fire, discipline and reward, then good luck on running an organization! Systems of accountability are incredibly important for a well functioning company or NGO.

3) The gray areas of management

When I first arrived my goal was to squash corruption and misappropriation of funds. It's not that people weren't trustworthy, but rather that systems weren't in place to properly account for money.

On our first project of 60 conveyor belt support frames, we asked the team to write a budget. When reviewing it, we noticed that many of the costs were inflated - the budget required a ridiculous 120 hacksaw blades for the project (2 per unit, in case one broke, ya know?). Emma and I quickly took over the estimating and budget writing role.

Six months in, I find myself on the other side of the fence, preparing inflated budgets for the people above me. I've realized that this wasn't about cheating the system, but about hedging against fluctuating markets in the Magazine and unpredictable cuts in funding. There is so much vulnerability and risk working in the Magazine that your contingency margins sometimes need to be as high as 100%.

Six months in, I also start to see the lines more clearly between corruption and culture. On one trip to a client's site, for some reason we stopped to buy several loaves of bread as a "gift" for the engineers there. I was concerned by this and other events, so I started working on a SMIDO Anti-Corruption Policy.

Another example: when $20 was given for a $17 purchase, the $3 balance would often disappear. Today, seeing how much our workers sacrifice with little pay and little incentive, I find myself more often saying "keep the change" and accounting for a $20 purchase.

My host father George once told me over dinner, "Family, brotherhood, and community is the most important thing in Africa. If you are doing well, then you are expected to help your cousins's cousins when they are struggling."

I know this type of management doesn't fly in Canada, or even in formal industry here, but I can see the implications of brotherhood that "buying bread" represents, and can more easily turn a blind eye to the $3 balance.

4) Micro-managing sucks

Yes it sucks, and I do it toooooo much! Typically our clients give us a sample product that they want manufactured, and we make a copy cat. On this latest project, all we had to work with were CAD drawings. Since the artisans had no previous experience reading engineering plans, Emma and I had to provide constant direction and support.

Additionally, we had to encourage our team to work to a higher standard of safety and quality since the Magazine is typically not the place to find right angles and parallel lines. Although it's been a fun challenge to build the skills, as well as an eye for quality over the last six months, it hasn't been easy.

I think they key to not micro-managing is having a team with the right skills to begin with, or having the resources to train them. Here we didn't have much of either. Maybe micro-managing was a necessary evil in this setting, but it's certainly not healthy. It's certainly not something I do well.

Since we are working on the second unit of two right now, I've been able to take a step back and let the team develop on the skills we taught them. I have to say, it's been satisfying to watch the progress this time around.

5) Limited resources suck too

SMIDO's coffers are pretty empty these days, with various projects competing for attention. Often though, the people who's attention you need have little understanding of the reality on the ground. Understanding both the need for incentives and also the hard work of our people at the shop, I've become a strong advocate for paying our workers more and securing more money to improve tools and safety in the shop. It's usually an uphill battle, but well worth it.

This extends pretty well to development as a whole. People on the ground face the challenge of explaining field realities to headquarters, which then has to translate those realities for international donors. I suppose a great deal is lost in translation though.

6) Slooooooow down

Coming from Vancouver and Toronto where buses have a schedule, important meetings start on time, and you show up for an interview 15 minutes before you're told, I had a hard time adjusting to Ghanaian Standard Time (GST) - which, by the way, has nothing to do with what the clock reads.

Today when I find myself waiting for something out of my control, I sit contently without a great deal of stress. I understand that maybe someone had to run to a funeral, or a mother had to stop and feed the baby she carries all day on her back, or that the taxi had a flat tire for the 100th time. In the meantime, find an opportunity to learn something while you wait.

7) Going beyond power and ego

One thing I have yet to get used to is the intense hierarchy in African societies. With huge sense of societal inferiority, a waiter in a restaurant barely whispers "good morning" when he comes to take your order, women usually start a conversation with "please, I beg you", and the idea of criticizing your boss is out of the question, especially if you're a 21 year old kid with too many ideas for what you think is positive change.

Fine, I can respect traditional hierarchy, but Africa also suffers from Big-Man-itis. The long standing socially entrenched power relationships of men - especially big, rich men - and associated ego trips are not something I'm a fan of.

8) That said, I'm not a politician

As per #7, you need to exercise immense tact and political stamina when dealing with complex situations among other leaders. Even with tact, sometimes there is no control over ridiculous outcomes and you face risk of your brain imploding from frustration. I've sat in far too many meetings where the outcome was decided in the minds of Big Men before the meeting and discussion even started.

Coming from an organization like EWB which resembles a pancake in it's hierarchy, where you can openly call up the CEO with a concern, I have yet to adjust to Africa's Big Man culture.

---

So after six months, I've had many ups and many more downs. My good friend and colleague Yaw gave me some words of encouragement yesterday over beers: "If you can manage successfully at SMIDO, in the most frustrating environment in the world, then you'll have a breeze anywhere in the formal private sector."

Well... I've almost managed successfully.

Looking back, I've achieved some major outcomes, but I'm not too satisfied with the means. I consider this a learning experience, and as the Ghanaians say, it's a gradual process!

But I bet even Peter Drucker and Jack Welch would be sweating buckets here in the Magazine.

Tuesday, June 9, 2009

An Incredible Opportunity Knocking

How can you leverage big business in the developing world to create opportunities for the urban poor? Read on to find out...

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About three months ago I sent an introductory email to one of the largest mining companies in the world, for confidentiality's sake let's call them GoldCorp. I didn't really expect much to come of that. A month later I got a call from the procurement manager at GoldCorp asking me to come in and meet with them. Emmanuel and I did a killer presentation to GoldCorp's top engineers, who then took us out to lunch. I was shocked and greatly humbled by how they welcomed us.



Long story short, after a visit to the Magazine and some long nights preparing proposals for them, GoldCorp has awarded us a contract. The truck above is one of about 35 in GoldCorp's fleet. We are manufacturing from scratch two sets of stairways, railings, and walkway platforms. Basically we are building the access system for the driver to make his way from the ground up and into the driver's cabin.

Read about SMIDO's social enterprise model here.
Read about the Suame Magazine context here.

Our vision for SMIDO is quickly becoming reality! This project is the reason I almost went insane, and it's the reason I've been hungrily working 12-15 hour days for 2 weeks without a day off, more pumped each day I wake up. Emma and I are singlehandedly managing a team of 10, a budget of nearly 25,000 USD (yeah, yeah, pretty small), and implementing quality and safety measures that the Magazine has never seen before.

I would lie if I said it were easy. I've had to send plenty of apology emails and phone calls on behalf of SMIDO and for my own mistakes, learned the hard way that taxes have to be paid, learned (and still learning) to manage both money and my patience, and found out that if you sit on a metal floor while welding (and your machine is grounded to the same metal floor) AND you happen to have your hand on the workpiece, you will get zapped good (yes, 4 years of engineering and I didn't realize that).

So why is this project so exciting? Well, the reason GoldCorp came to visit the Magazine a month back was to get an idea of our potential. They had a project up their sleeves for us to retrofit about 30 of their big trucks with similar walkway/railing/stairway assemblies. At close to 30,000 USD a pop including shipping from the US, that's nearly 1m USD. $1,000,000. One Million. Whoa. What? WHAT?!

To GoldCorp that's a $1m purchase order for truck ladders. Business as usual. To the Magazine however, that's $1m of desperately needed development. A $1m direct injection of capital into the Magazine in the form of material procurement, sub-contracting, paid wages, and all of the profit put towards education programs. That's $1m towards developing sustainable livelihoods. $1m towards improving health, nutrition, and sanitation. $1m towards school fees for the families of the artisans. $1m towards building a movement that will raise the Suame Magazine forever out of poverty and prove to the world that business CAN and WILL end poverty! (How many NGO's would kill for $1m of project funding from donors? And how sustainable is that $1m donor relationship in reality? Business 1, Aid 0.)

My heart beats faster just thinking about this. I've come to believe that what poor people need most is a way to make more money. Many development projects treat the poor as if they were incapable of fending for themselves, just sitting around waiting for whites to give them free food and clothes and schools and hospitals and goats. I feel that's one of the greatest barriers to development. It creates dependency and crushes local capacity.

Building sustainable livelihoods, on the other hand, creates opportunity. With increased income comes the food, the health care, the school fees, choice, and most importantly, dignity.

---

This GoldCorp project is about halfway done with delivery of the first half set for Thursday. This is a pretty key milestone. When the GoldCorp execs left my office last month, they weren't too impressed with the Magazine's capacity. They told me how appalled they were at the safety standards, and didn't see how we could make 30 units to be of reliable quality. Emma and I pretty much gave them our word that we could make the impossible happen on time and asked for their confidence in SMIDO and in us. That's what got us this "small" test contract. The future is bright if we can get this right.

---

Thanks for reading, now here's a glimpse into my life...

Our workshop. Working outdoors is beautiful each glorious sunny day. The down side is work grinds to a halt when it starts to rain.


Our masters Bonsu, Owusu, Bombay, and Emma work to align a set of stairs.


An underlying goal of the project is to improve skills of the artisans. Sharing tips, measurement skills, and teaching our staff to read CAD drawings are all important steps in making the Magazine more attractive to the formal sector.


After carefully reviewing the engineering drawings, our master Paha goes to work on finishing a workpiece.


Bombay trying to align some of the supports. Note to self: never buy crap made in China. Ever. Our tri-squares aren't square.


Yours truly enjoying a pineapple break. Another good thing about the Magazine is that ladies walk around all day selling popcorn, pineapple, water, rice, fish, kebabs, spring rolls, cosmetics, clothing, and anything else you could want. Note how grubby I look. I haven't had time to shave in 2 weeks.


Back on the stairway, our master Kosovo installs a support bracket.


This lovely lady mixed all of our paint by hand, but shyness hid the beautiful smile.


Finally, we matched the "Caterpillar Yellow" from the paint charts. Just like at Home Depot.

Wednesday, May 20, 2009

Like a Kid in a Candy Store

I love Accra. It's another world compared to Kumasi. Here I've got tons of restaurants, an ultra-modern shopping mall, a giant cinema (I've watched Angels and Demons as well as Mall Cop since I've been here), the National Theater, a beautiful sandy beach on the Atlantic, and hotel swimming pools that can be used for a couple of bucks a day.

Now, one thing about Ghana that I find less than spectacular is their food. I'm sorry, I know its un-EWB-esque of me. When I was in Zambia, I couldn't get enough nshima! Here it's a different story though. When I got to Accra, the first place I went to was the giant obruni supermarket.

I literally walked down each aisle with my jaw dropped to the floor, awestruck, and staring like an idiot at all the different varieties of vinegar they stocked.

To give you an idea of how happy I was that night, here is what my shopping cart contained as I walked out:

- Olive oil (OMG salad just got 10x better)
- Ferrero Rocher chocolates
- a bag of GRANOLA!!!
- 4-pack of apricot yogurt!!!!1
- a bag of raw almonds
- apple juice
- can of tomato soup
- pre-made GREEK SALAD!!!
- a giant tub of plain yogurt

I'm getting excited just thinking about it. To those of you who don't know me, my favourite food combination in the world is granola with yogurt. When I held the bag of granola and the yogurt in my hands at the same time, I was almost overwhelmed with joy.

And then just as I thought I was finished, I saw it... a bag of coffee filters.

My second biggest craving here in Ghana is for some good coffee. Africa, the motherland of coffee bean production, is for some reason limited to instant Nescafe coffee. This makes no sense to me.

Anyways, I managed to track down a container of ground coffee a while back and have been drinking make-shift coffee each morning since. Basically I use the French press method, but without the press. One teaspoon of coffee into a cup of boiling water, let sit for 5 minutes, and enjoy! (But be careful not to shake the cup as this will agitate the coffee grounds, and don't drink the last 1/4 of the cup or you will be unpleasantly surprised).

Seeing the bag of coffee filters in the shop, I instantly had an idea. I noticed they even had a coffee machine, but I wasn't about to pay $17 for one. No, instead I found me a big plastic funnel. I can't wait to get back to Kumasi now with my funnel and coffee filters to try and develop a manual coffee-making apparatus. XD

(Pictures to come if I'm successful, and especially if I'm not!)

Sunday, May 17, 2009

The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly

I’ve always said that this blog would be an open window into my life overseas. My passion, my work, my everyday life, the cultures and the people I meet along the way. However, I think the stories about colourful umbrellas and cute old ladies selling matchsticks are a bit misleading. They paint a rosy picture of a life in development, and so I’m going to set the record straight here and now.

I’m in Accra. I flew in on Friday morning for emergency dental work after a night of tooth pain and mental images of Tom Hanks clutching volleyball in one hand and an ice skate in the other. In addition, I’m working on my Malaria record (now up to 3), and on top of that, I’m practically losing my mind.

I’ve taken a week off to decompress, relax, and re-evaluate my work, my life, and the universe. Up until a few minutes ago, I was contemplating getting on a plane to come home early.

I guess at the end of it all I’ve come to a few realizations…


1) You only have control over one thing: yourself

2) Accept failure as a learning opportunity, even when failure is not an option

3) Sometimes you have to make do with what you have, re-evaluate your expectations, and move in a new direction

4) Take care of yourself, then go ahead and save the world


Like any industry, there are people working in development who are incredibly dedicated, and those in it for the money. Some work hard, and some slip through. But when you talk about passion, I don’t think any other field compares. My friends in Canada and across Africa are a constant source of inspiration. These are the kinds of people who devote themselves 100% physically, mentally, and emotionally to their work and to their communities. However, with this kind of dedication also comes a price.

In my time in Africa I’ve met mostly wonderful people, and then some that were not so wonderful. I’ve seen corruption, extreme selfishness, and intimidation. My favourite Nigerian gospel singer, Sister Gloria Oluchi, has a special name for these kinds of people: “Enemies of Progress”. When you’re driven by the passion and desire to create something bigger than yourself, these kinds of people can bring you down fast and hard.

The back story to this is pretty long, convoluted, and probably skewed by my own biases and interpretation of what actually happened. If you want to know, buy me a drink when I get back; a large soy latte, to be exact.

But the moral of the story lies in the 4 points I mentioned above. You may find yourself in situations you didn’t imagine possible that will shock you, maybe scare you, and make you lose all motivation. In such times, it’s your leadership, strength, and judgement that will determine the outcome. Or rather, you may have little control over the outcome, but you can control how you will feel about it in a week or in five years.

Friday, May 1, 2009

My Recurring Conversation

I was walking through the market today and I came across this gem of a CD. It's become my new favourite song and artist, check it out below! I dedicate this to anyone who has had to sit on a 7+ hour bus ride across Africa while bracing for bumpy roads, chewing on dust, and having to endure either a Nigerian movie or excessively loud gospel music.



As I was saying, I was walking through the market today, when from behind me...

OOOBRUNI! (WHITE MAN!)

Obibini! (Black man!)

*group of young women go wild with laughter*

EEEEEYYYY!!!! Wo ti Twi? (You speak Twi?)

Ahh! Me nti paa, nanso me suyan. (I don't understand well, but I'm learning)

Debi, debi, debi. Wo ti PAAAAA! (No, no, no. You speak VERY WELL!)

Wo fro e sen? (What do they call you?)

Kwadjo. Na wo ensuee? ("Monday born". And you?)

EEEEYYYY! Me din de Adjua! EY EY OBRUNIIII! (I am also Monday born. What a coincidence.)

Wa ya dieeee! EH!!! (You've done well!)

Me dasi. Me dasi. (Thank you. Thank you.)

EEEEEYYYY!!!! Wa ya dieee! (You are doing so well!)

*words I sort of didn't understand*

Ahhh! Debi. Me n'pe yele. (No, I would not like a wife.)

Nehh. Me ni yele. (No, I also don't have a wife in Canada.)

AHH! Adien?!? (Why?)

Eyyy! Ma ka-kra. (I'm a small boy.)

Tssk! Adien wo ba-ha? (What are you doing here then?)

Me adjuma Suame Magazine. (I work in the Suame Magazine.)

Eh? (Eh?)

Ma engineeeeah. (I'm an engineer.)

Huh? (Huh?)

A fittaaah. (A fitter = engineer.)

EY! A-hhaaaaaaa! Obruni Obruni!

M-mmmm! Madamfo, nsuo bra. Me ko fie. Me ba achina. (My good friend, the rain is coming. I'm going home. I come tomorrow.)

Kwadjo, Kwadjo! Achina.

---

(I've tried to capture all the sound effects of the conversation, but the body language and arm waving is a pretty big part of it too.)

This was the conversation I had with Adjua. I usually have this identical conversation about 5 to 10 times a day. It most often takes place on a tro-tro packed with 15 people laughing, shaking hands, and shouting their approval at me. It might happen at the market when one of the ladies yells "Obruni!" and I call back, sending all the other market ladies into hoots and hollers and spontaneous marriage proposals. Sometimes I can sneak in with a bit of English when I don't understand a sentence, but usually I can manage a 3 minute conversation in Twi.

Adjua, my name-sake, was sitting on the corner of the street in the busiest part of the market running her business. At one point in the conversation she turned to me and asked in a serious tone if I wanted to buy anything, pointing downwards. What she was pointing to was a baking tray full of neatly stacked matchboxes. This is Adjua's business: selling matches. All day. Every day. She looked to be about 60, full of energy, and one of the most vocal ladies at the market. I wonder what someone with her charisma and energy could have achieved, aside from selling matchsticks on a street corner, given the opportunities that we all have in the West?

What I find interesting is that she didn't know a word of English, has probably not said a word to any white man before (beyond Obruni!), and yet we had a fulfilling conversation which made my day. I wonder how many opportunities I've missed out on because of the language barrier? I wonder what advice and experiences remain hidden behind Adjua's 'wisdom wrinkles'? How many secrets about development I could uncover, and how many more lie ahead?

I'm starting formal Twi lessons on Monday, and then I'll go visit Adjua again.

Thursday, April 30, 2009

Fighting Poverty via Web 2.0?

I like to think I'm an early adopter when it comes to technology...

You can follow me on Twitter.
You can ask me questions on Aardvark.
You can check out my CV on LinkedIn.
You can friend me on Facebook.
If you're lucky, you can even date me online.
(Or at least buy my couch on Craigslist)

However, it's just recently dawned on me how useful all of this is to my work in development! I've met friends, colleagues, and business partners on LinkedIn, and found relevant new ideas about poverty on my Twitter feed. Just today I asked Aardvark to help me with a business problem, and "Jack" from Red Deer sent me an answer in under 60 seconds.

But the coolest moment of Web 2.0 use happened yesterday...

I got an email from a business contact asking if I can supply him with a "thermal lance" from the Suame Magazine.

Err... I think I know what you mean... but is that more like a "light saber" or a "cosmic death-ray"?

I called in one of our best artisans, Abdula. He didn't know. We called a couple more guys, but they seemed perplexed too. And then... "AHA! The internet!"

Thirty seconds later I had Wikipedia pages full of information on the exact operating temperature of a thermal lance, and several Youtube videos of mechanics around the world showing off their fire power. It was awesome to see people (who had likely never used the Internet before) crowded around my laptop excitedly watching, learning, and asking questions!

Our major goal as an organization is to move people out of poverty and vulnerability by providing new opportunities for education and business development. I can't think of a cooler way of facilitating technology transfer and educating people on the leading industry practices.



It also turns out I DID know what a thermal lance was... I saw it a couple of weeks ago in the movie Bank Job, where they used it to cut through the concrete floor of a bank in central London. Cool stuff!